Stage 3: Barlovento – Santo Domingo de Garafía

The third stage of the GR-130 La Palma Nature Trail begins in the town of Barlovento, at the roundabout between the LP-1 and LP-109 roads. The town hall and the Church of Nuestra Señora del Rosario, as well as the old optic of the Faro de Barlovento lighthouse, located next to these buildings.

Once we have enjoyed a visit to Barlovento, we embark on this long and challenging 30 km stage across the north La Palma. The route starts on the LP-1, so extreme caution with traffic is recommended. After a slight turn, before completing the first kilometre, take the asphalted track on the right, flanked by houses and small vegetable gardens. A little further on, the track turns sharply to the left and becomes a dirt road.

After a winding stretch halfway up the slope, the first Canary Island dragon trees (Dracaena draco), emblematic plants of the area, begin to appear. Approaching the first houses of La Tosca, the resilience of the inhabitants of the north of the island becomes palpable, in order to settle in this hostile environment. This area, which did not have asphalted roads until the mid-20th century, survived mainly on the sale of dragon tree leaves for traditional basketry, which explains the abundance of this species in the area.

The route continues along the asphalted track to the La Tosca fountain, once used as an outdoor washing place. When you reach the fountain, take the track on the right, descending as indicated by the Caminos Naturales signage.

Further on, after another turn to the left, the trial becomes narrower and turns into a paved path, as the surroundings become more picturesque. Here, it crosses a small area where species typical of the laurel forest intermingle with heathland, creating a charming atmosphere in the Barranco de Topaciegas ravine, plunging the us into the Monteverde de Gallegos-Franceses Special Area of Conservation.

We are taken through a series of ravines, and next up is the Barranco de la Vica ravine, known for its interesting flora, and largely similar to the previous one. On reaching the first houses of La Palmita, after almost four kilometres, a typical decorated cross greets us as we cross the district. It is now time for a sharp descent to the bottom of the Barranco de Gallegos ravine, taking us into the Guelguén Special Nature Reserve. After this descent, typically of this stage, the trail turns back uphill again, zigzagging occasionally with the sole purpose of softening the slope to be overcome.

Shortly before the six-kilometre mark, we reach the area of Gallegos, with the houses of Lomo de la Crucita in emerging first and in parallel the houses of Lomo de la Cancela, both illustrative of the harshness of inhabiting these lands.

The path continues to approach the coast with a steep descent reaching the Gallegos viewpoint, also known as the Lomo de la Cancela viewpoint. From here, we can enjoy spectacular panoramic views of the island's coastline and the Atlantic Ocean as well as the remains of the old Gallegos dock, which in the past used to supply these villages. Goods were transported up the steep slopes to villages.

Continuing, we zigzag our way up and down the Barranco de Melchor Pérez ravine and then the Barranco de Franceses ravine. Along the route, the moist breeze from the Atlantic Ocean will help us catch our breath.

Progressing further, the route widens and the gradient eases slightly as it reaches the first house in one of the neighbourhoods that make up Franceses. After a short zigzag, we reach the main asphalted track offering some relief to regain strength as we cross the district of Los Franceses. We then pass a new, smaller settlement belonging to Los Franceses, before continuing along what is known Camino de la Fajana, a wide, well-surfaced track. After a series of bends, we temporarily leave the track for a path on the right which, after a short windy section, returns to the main track.

Just before tackling the last stretch of the descent towards the banana plantations that announce our arrival in the village of La Fajana, the route turns sharply to the left, where there is the option of a quick visit to Los Frances beach and the remains of what was once the old port.

The route then descends to the bottom of the Barranco de los Hombres ravine, before immediately tackling a vertiginous and tough ascent. After overcoming the most demanding ramps, we enter the Protected Landscape of El Tablado, before entering the village of the same name. The short walk through this small village is the perfect moment for a break to take in the traditional buildings and its small vegetable gardens where the famous Canarian potato is grown.

Once we have caught our breath, we face the next descent, this time into the Barranco Fagundo ravine, before heading back uphill again. The orography gives the walker a break, passing by the Mirador de La Calzada viewpoint, reaching a handful of scattered houses, the prelude to the last stretch of the route before reaching the town of Don Pedro.