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Municipality
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At the confluence of the Sella and Güeña rivers stands one of the most famous and well-loved places in Asturias, Cangas de Onís. It was the first capital of the Kingdom of Asturias, from the victory in the Battle of Covadonga in 722 until 774, and today, it is the capital of the local council of the same name. It is an idyllic town with rich cultural, historical, religious, ethnological, and environmental wealth. As the motto on its coat of arms says: Minima Urbium Maxima Sedium (the smallest of towns, the greatest of capitals).
Cangas de Onís has a long history that dates back thousands of years. There is evidence of human activity around Cangas de Onís since the Upper Palaeolithic. Archaeological sites have been uncovered in the Cueva del Buxu and the Cueva de los Azules. The Cueva del Buxu not only yielded well-preserved human remains and tools, as in the Cueva de los Azules, but also magnificent cave paintings of zoomorphic engravings such as bison, horses, or goats, and other geometric illustrations. There are also other prehistoric caves near the town that give us an insight into the societies of ancient times. There is also a dolmen from around 3,000 B.C. built from stone slabs that served as a funerary monument. The chamber where it is located is sumptuously decorated with engravings and drawings. It even contained a polished axe which is now exhibited at the Archaeological Museum of Asturias.
Over time, the Sella River became the border between the Astur and Cantabrian peoples. These two pre-Roman peoples allied to resist Roman expansion, but ultimately they fell under Roman domination. We can see a Cultural Heritage and Artistic Historical Monument by the River Sella which shows evidence of Roman influence. That is the Roman Bridge of Cangas de Onís. It is thought that the current bridge was built over a previous Roman one. In fact, it is a work from the 13th-14th century attributed to a Romanesque architectural style transitioning to Gothic. The bridge abuts natural stone outcrops, from where it rises. Its remarkable features include enormous crescent arches and a Latin cross suspended from the central arch, symbolising the Cross of Victory. This cross commemorates the most important historical event in Cangas de Onís—the triumph over the Moors in the Battle of Covadonga in 722.
Once victory was achieved in 722 and the Christian conquest had begun, Cangas de Onís was elevated to the status of the capital of the emerging Kingdom of Asturias. Its importance grew significantly, and in 737, Favila, a descendant of Pelayo, built the Chapel of the Holy Cross. This structure serves as an illustration of how sacred areas get repurposed, as it was reconstructed over its predecessor dating back to 437 and, before that, over the aforementioned dolmen, which is now known as the Dolmen of the Holy Cross. It is considered to be the first Christian chapel in Asturias and in Spain.
The chapel is also important historically because King Favila and his wife were buried here, and the church had the honour of housing the Cross of Victory in its interior. Despite undergoing restoration in 1633, its destruction during the Spanish Civil War could not be prevented. The dolmen was also impacted. Only the consecration slab of the shrine remains, which is believed to be the first literary monument of the Christian conquest. If you want to learn more about this reign, you can visit the Aula del Reino de Asturias (Kingdom of Asturias Educational Centre) in Cangas de Onís, where its evolution and legacy are explained in detail.
This regal city hosts other beautiful structures such as the Church of Cangas de Onís, which was built in 1963 as a three-nave building. The three-level bell gable with bells on its façade is particularly striking.
In Cangas de Onís, there is a 18th-century chapel in honour of Saint Anthony, which replaced the original 16th-century chapel. This chapel is dedicated to the city's patron, Saint Anthony of Padua. Additionally, the Asturian palaces and mansions in the city offer excellent examples of Asturian architecture, inviting visitors to explore their historical and architectural significance. The Pintu Palace, which is a reconstruction of the original 17th-century building is a fine example. You should also take a moment to admire the mountain houses on Avenida de Covadonga and Avenida de Castilla. Finally, it is worth mentioning that Cangas de Onís is one of the most famous entry points into the Picos de Europa. It is without doubt, a must-visit for nature lovers, mountaineers, and those who appreciate agrarian landscapes.
Cangas de Onís celebrates its patron saint festivities on 13th June, in honour of Saint Anthony of Padua, with spectacular events such as the burning of the rozu (brushwood) in the Foguera de San Antonio (Saint Anthony’s bonfire), La Jira (a communal banquet) with fireworks over the Roman Bridge, or an open-air dance. There are also other festivals linked to Cangas de Onís, such as the Shepherd's Festival, a celebration of Pelayo and his loyal followers, a contest along with an exhibition of Asturian cheese and varieties of honey, the Festival of the Fisherman on the Sella River, and the auction of the Campanu del Sella. There is no shortage of things to do in Cangas de Onís. .