Geology

San Martín de Grazanes

To the northwest of Benia de Onís you will find the quiet parish of San Martín de Grazanes, consisting of six localities: Beceña, Cuerres, Llenín, San Martín, Tárano, and Villaverde. They lie at the foot of the Sierra de Hibeo and Peña Verde, where they enjoy privileged views of the Picos de Europa, the River Güeña, and scenery dotted with peaks, forests, and green meadows.

The first village reached from Benia de Onís is San Martín. In its vicinity stands the Church of Saint Martín de Grazanes, a popular Romanesque church from the 13th century that is part of the Romanesque route of Cangas de Onís. It has been modified several times over the years, but it retains characteristic late Romanesque features, such as corbels under the eaves, a large bell gable with three openings, exceptional windows, or the capitals on the triumphal arch, as well as an interesting baptismal font. It is also noteworthy for its excellent geometric Baroque paintings dating back to the 18th century, preserved within its apse. Additionally, the exterior boasts a portal adorned with an alfiz, characteristic of Islamic art. This is an unusual feature in Asturias. Next to the whitewashed chapel stands the venerable parish cemetery of Saint Martin, where a century-old yew tree grows. Saint Martin also witnessed the war of Christian conquest, as evidenced by the remains of a mediaeval Christian tower built in masonry. Some of its buttresses and walls are still preserved. The remains of the Tower are now part of a house in the village and can still be seen.

Beceña is the second locality we encounter along the way. One of its more notable features is the small Saint Turibius Chapel, that has been included in the Cultural Heritage Inventory of Asturias. The exact construction date is unknown, although it is estimated to be a modern religious work from the 16th to 18th centuries. It has a rectangular floor plan, with a gabled roof, and it is crowned with a bell gable ending in a Latin cross. Take a moment to look at the entrance, that has a porch that is typical of chapels built in Asturian popular architecture, and its door is adorned with a semicircular arch. It also conserves monolithic windows on its sides. The pilgrimage of Saint Turibius of Beceña is celebrated here in this hermitage.

Beyond Beceña, the path leads us to the village of Llenín. This village is home to the Church of Saint Tomás de Llenín, which is a stone-built religious construction of a single floor. It has a porch, a bell gable topped with a Latin cross, and a side chapel. Inside, it houses a raised choir up on the second floor, a triumphal arch that separates the presbytery from the rest of the nave, and small windows that offer lovely views of the Picos de Europa. In its vicinity stands the parish cemetery of Llenín and another sacred tree of Asturias, a century-old yew.

Llenín’s big day is celebrated every second Sunday of October, when the Ramos al Rosario (Bouquet for the Rosary) is celebrated. The day before there is a popular gathering, and on the actual day, there is a high mass in the Church of Saint Tomás de Llenín, the auctioning off of the bouquet, and a joyful celebration.

The last village of Saint Martin of Grazanes along the route is Tárano, or Tarañu. This small village houses a hermitage dedicated to Our Lady of Velilla. This stone chapel with a four-sided roof was built in the 17th century, although a century later, it was restored and expanded. A bell dated 1734 is still preserved from the time of its restoration. Today, it serves as the focal point for Tárano's main festival and for venerating Our Lady of Velilla every 22nd August.